WATCH SMITH JOURNAL · ROLEX HISTORY
From a London watch business to icons of exploration and the auction room, these are moments that shaped Rolex’s place in watchmaking.
A SHORT FILM · 18 SECONDS
Seven visual chapters trace the early Oyster, the rise of the sports watch and three remarkable collector pieces. The images are editorial; the auction photographs show the actual lots.
Visual history film assembled for Watch Smith from still photographs. 1905, 1953 and 1963 scenes use illustrative images, while the 1926 Oyster and auction lots use source photography.
THE MILESTONES
The timeline highlights a few defining moments. Rolex’s own history pages provide the full account.
At 24, Hans Wilsdorf established a company in London that distributed timepieces. He saw the potential of a precise, reliable watch worn on the wrist at a time when pocket watches still dominated.
Rolex history, 1905–1919Rolex introduced the Oyster, a waterproof and dustproof wristwatch with a sealed case to protect its movement. The design became a foundation for the brand’s future tool watches.
Rolex history, 1926–1945
Rolex patented a self-winding mechanism with a Perpetual rotor. Movement from the wearer’s wrist could wind the watch, bringing daily practicality to the Oyster case.
Rolex history, 1926–1945The Submariner debuted as a divers’ watch waterproof to 100 metres, with a rotating bezel for measuring immersion time. The same period saw Rolex develop professional watches for explorers and specialists.
Rolex history, 1953–1967
Rolex introduced the Cosmograph Daytona chronograph in 1963. Its connection to racing, distinctive dials and many rare variants later made it a focus of collectors worldwide.
Rolex history, 1953–1967
THE AUCTION ROOM
Three landmark Rolex auction results. Prices below are historical sale results in their original currencies, including the auction house’s buyer’s premium where reported. These watches are not for sale here.
The personal Daytona associated with the actor and racing driver carried an engraved message from Joanne Woodward. Its ownership story helped make the 2017 sale a watch-auction landmark.
US$17,752,500 · 2017View the Phillips lot
Phillips described this as the only-known manual-winding white-gold Rolex chronograph. Its unusual metal and documented rarity brought a standout result at the 2018 Daytona Ultimatum sale.
CHF 5,937,500 · 2018Read the Phillips result
Owned by Vietnam’s last emperor, this yellow-gold triple-calendar moonphase has a black dial and diamond markers. Its history and unusual configuration made it a celebrated collector piece.
CHF 5,066,000 · 2017View the Phillips lotHistory: Rolex 1905–1919, 1926–1945, 1953–1967. Auction photographs and results: Phillips Newman, Unicorn, Bao Dai. Rolex and Phillips own their respective photographs.
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